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Viognier (VEE-ohn-yay) forms the base (along with Marsanne) of our Cotes de Tablas Blanc, as well as in some years providing an aromatic lift to our Roussanne-based Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc. Whether in the Esprit Blanc or the Cotes de Tablas Blanc, Viognier contributes intense aromatics of peaches, apricots, and violets, as well as viscosity and minerality in the mouth.
Early History
Viognier is historically grown in the Northern Rhône valley, and reaches its peak in the tiny appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet. The precise historical origin of the varietal is unknown, but many believe it dates back to the Roman Empire. According to one story, Emperor Probus imported Viognier into Condrieu from Dalmatia (in present-day Croatia) in 281 AD as a means of replacing the vineyards destroyed by Emperor Vespasian. Legend has it that Vespasian tore up the Condrieu vineyards after the locals revolted, a revolt which he attributed to drinking too much of the native wine.
Regardless of how the varietal originally arrived in Condrieu, historical records confirm that Viognier was grown in the area during the Roman Empire. When the Romans were forced out of Gaul in the 5th Century, the vines remained uncultivated for centuries but were revived by locals in the 9th Century. The varietal spread to neighboring Château Grillet, and from there to the papal palace at Avignon in the 14th Century.
Viognier in California
Once found almost exclusively in the northern Rhône appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet, Viognier is becoming increasingly popular around the world. American growers, led by pioneers such as Calera and Joseph Phelps, brought Viognier into the United States in small quantities in the late 1980s. Almost simultaneously, other American growers brought over what they thought were Roussanne cuttings from the Rhône Valley, which were then propagated and planted in vineyards all over California. Years later, in 1998, those vines were identified as Viognier, not Roussanne – a discovery which added a new Viognier clone for California producers to work with. We contributed by added two new clones, imported from Château de Beaucastel. You can read more about the Roussanne-Viognier Controversy
Viognier is a reasonably difficult grape to grow, as it is somewhat more prone to disease than other varietals and can be unpredictable in its yield. It is, however, reasonably drought resistant, enabling it to thrive at Tablas Creek, where we dry farm as much as possible. The varietal flowers and ripens early, and is usually the first varietal harvested. Because Viognier flowers so early in the season, it is very susceptible to spring frosts; the frost-protection fans installed in the Viognier growing block at the vinyeard have been important. The vines have medium-sized leaves, with small clusters of small, deep yellow berries that produce straw-gold colored wines.
Flavors and Aromas
The distinctive aroma of peaches, apricots, and violets is a hallmark of Viognier. Its highly aromatic nose is complemented by moderate acidity and flavors of peaches and minerals in the mouth. The varietal has thrived in the warm climate and limestone-clay soils of Tablas Creek. On the nine acres we had in production in 2008, we harvested approximately 19 tons of Viognier, which is about 15% of our white Rhône production.
This article originally appeared in a recent quarterly newsletter. Each newsletter, we spotlight the history and characteristics of one of our Rhone varietals. You can sign up for our mailing list.
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You can go back to the summaries of the different Rhone grape varietals.