Viognier

Viognier grapes

Viognier (pronounced VEE-ohn-yay) is the most-planted white Rhone varietal in the United States, and produces wines with intense aromatics of peaches, apricots, and violets, as well as viscosity and lushness on the palate. At Tablas Creek, it takes the lead in our Côtes de Tablas Blanc, an important secondary role in our Patelin de Tablas Blanc, and has even occasionally appeared as a varietal wine.

Early History

Viognier is historically grown in the Northern Rhône valley, and reaches its peak in the tiny appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet. The precise historical origin of the varietal is unknown, but many believe it dates back to the Roman Empire. According to one story, Emperor Probus imported Viognier into Condrieu from Dalmatia (in present-day Croatia) in 281 AD as a means of replacing the vineyards destroyed by Emperor Vespasian. Legend has it that Vespasian tore up the Condrieu vineyards after the locals revolted, a revolt which he attributed to drinking too much of the native wine.

Regardless of how the varietal originally arrived in Condrieu, historical records confirm that Viognier was grown in the area during the Roman Empire. When the Romans were forced out of Gaul in the 5th Century, the vines remained uncultivated for centuries but were revived by locals in the 9th Century. The varietal spread to neighboring Château Grillet, and from there to the papal palace at Avignon in the 14th Century.

Viognier's Decline and Recovery

By the 1960's, Viognier plantings had diminished dramatically, down to an estimated 15 acres in Condrieu and little more elsewhere in the Rhone Valley. But with the growth of interest in varietal wines in the late 1980's, the grape was brought to California, Australia, South Africa and New Zealand. There are now nearly 3000 acres of Viognier in California alone, making it by far the most planted white Rhone varietal.

Viognier in California

American growers, led by pioneers such as John Alban, Josh Jensen of Calera, and Joseph Phelps, brought Viognier into the United States in small quantities in the late 1980s. Almost simultaneously, other American growers brought over what they thought were Roussanne cuttings from the Rhône Valley, which were then propagated and planted in vineyards around California. Years later, in 1998, those vines were identified as Viognier, not Roussanne – a discovery which added a new Viognier clone for California producers to work with. We contributed two new clones, imported from Château de Beaucastel.

Viognier in the Vineyard and Cellar

Viognier is a reasonably difficult grape to grow, as it is somewhat more prone to disease than other varietals and can be unpredictable in its yield. It is, however, reasonably drought resistant, enabling it to thrive in the dry Paso Robles summer climate. It flowers and ripens early, and is usually the first varietal harvested in very early September. Because Viognier flowers so early in the season, it is susceptible to spring frosts, most notably in 2011 when its production was decimated.  We have installed frost-protection fans in our largest Viognier block, which help most years.
 
The vines have medium-sized leaves, with small clusters of small, deep yellow berries that produce straw-gold colored wines. On the roughly six acres we have in production, we've averaged just over 16 tons in production since 2006, about 2.8 tons per acre.  Viognier makes up roughly 15% of our white Rhône production.
 
We typically ferment Viognier to emphasize its freshness rather than its richness. It naturally ripens with relatively high sugars and low acidity, so we ferment it in stainless steel, and look to blend it with lots that have good minerality, bright acidity and low alcohol. Our most frequent partners for our Viognier are Marsanne (for minerality and elegance) and Grenache Blanc (for acidity).  These three varieties, plus brighter, leaner lots of Roussanne, make up our Cotes de Tablas Blanc each year.  In our Patelin de Tablas Blanc, which is based on the bright acids and rich mouthfeel of Grenache Blanc, Viognier contributes floral aromatics and stone fruit flavors.
 

Flavors and Aromas

Viognier's powerful aromas of peaches, apricots, and violets make it one of the world's most recognizable grape varieties. In the mouth, it shows great richness, flavors of stone fruit and honey, and a long finish. It is typically best drunk young.

This article originally appeared in a recent quarterly newsletter. Each newsletter, we spotlight the history and characteristics of one of our Rhone varietals. You can sign up for our mailing list.

You can go back to the summaries of the different Rhône grape varietals.

Events

Harvest Wine Weekend

October 14th - 16th, 2016
Celebrate Paso Robles Harvest Wine Weekend with Tablas Creek. Join us in the tasting room all weekend for a first look at our flagship Esprit de Tablas wines from the vibrant, powerful 2014 vintage. We will kick off the festival Friday night at McPhee's Grill in Templeton with a four-course, five-wine dinner. For reservations, call us at 805.237.1231 x230 or email events@tablascreek.com. On Saturday, join us in the cellar at Tablas Creek for a series of interactive harvest cellar tours throughout the day. Led by Executive Winemaker Neil Collins, guests will sample wines in various stages of the winemaking process and learn about the 2016 harvest and winemaking at Tablas Creek. Tours will be offered 10:30, 12:00, 2:00 and 3:30 (limited to 20 guests per tour; free to all guests). Details & more events »


Tablas Creek News

New Release: 2014 Terret Noir

We are excited for our inaugural release of our newest grape, of which the half-acre we planted is California's first. Details »

Jason Haas: 2015 Paso Robles Wine Industry Person of the Year

We were proud to learn that Tablas Creek Partner/GM Jason Haas was voted by his peers the 2015 Paso Robles Wine Industry Person of the Year.  His father, our founder Robert Haas, wrote this appreciation on our blog.

Wine Advocate: 15 Wines 90+ Points

In Robert Parker's Wine Advocate (Issue 220) 15 Tablas wines topped 90 points, including 2014 Esprit de Tablas (93-96), 2013 Panoplie (94-96), and 2014 Panoplie (95-97). Read the review » More press »

 


On the Tablas Blog

Eat Global, Drink Local

July 20, 2016
By Evelyne Fodor
One of the most frequently asked questions at the tasting room is also one of my favorites. “Which food do I pair with this wine?” At Tablas Creek we take food pairing very seriously. For each of our wines we offer recipes and food pairing suggestions. Each spring and fall, we invite our members to taste dishes created by local chefs to match our new releases. We also have a monthly column on our Tablas blog dedicated to this topic.  Read More »