Mourvèdre, with its meaty richness and wonderful longevity, forms the backbone of our Esprit de Beaucastel. Twenty-one acres of our vineyard are devoted to Mourvèdre, representing the largest acreage of any of our grapes and over a third of our red Châteauneuf-du-Pape varieties.
Mourvèdre is native to Spain, where it is known as Monastrell and is second only to Grenache (Garnacha) in importance. From the Spanish town of Murviedro, near Valencia, Mourvèdre was brought to Provence in the late Middle Ages where, prior to the phylloxera invasion at the end of the 19th century, it was the dominant varietal.
The phylloxera invasion was particularly devastating to Mourvèdre. Whereas most of the other Rhône varietals were easily matched with compatible rootstocks, Mourvèdre proved difficult to graft with the existing phylloxera- resistant rootstock. Thus, when the vineyards were replanted, most producers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape chose to replant with varieties that were easier to graft, such as Grenache. For decades, Mourvèdre was found in France almost exclusively in the sandy (and phylloxera-free) soil of Bandol, on the French Mediterranean coast, where it is bottled both as a red wine (blended with Grenache and Cinsault) and as perhaps the world's most coveted dry rosé.
Compatible rootstocks for Mourvèdre were developed only after World War II. Shortly thereafter, Jacques Perrin of Château de Beaucastel led regeneration efforts in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and made Mourvèdre a primary grape in the red Beaucastel wines. Since the late 1960s, total plantings in Southern France have increased dramatically, but Beaucastel is still distinctive among Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers for using an unusually high percentage of Mourvèdre: up to 35% in some vintages.
Mourvèdre came to California as Mataro (a name taken from a town near Barcelona where the varietal was grown) in the mid to late 1800s. In California it was probably first established in Santa Clara County, although the oldest surviving vineyards are in Contra Costa County. It also found a home In Australia in the Barossa Valley. Until recently, the grape was rarely bottled by itself, and was instead generally used as a component of field blends. The increasing popularity and prestige of Rhône varietals, the importation of higher-quality clones (in which Tablas Creek played a role) and a return to the French Mourvèdre name has given the varietal a new life. Currently about 400 acres are planted in California.
Mourvèdre was one of the initial eight grape varieties that we imported into the United States. While we were waiting for the vines to be released from USDA quarantine, we planted about two acres of the California-sourced Mataro clone near the top of our vineyard. We vinified the French and American clones separately, and found that Mourvedre showed the greatest disparity in quality. We grafted over the American-sourced vines to our French clones in 2003.
Mourvèdre is a late-ripening varietal that flourishes with hot summer temperatures. As such, it is beautifully suited to our southern Rhône-like climate at Tablas Creek, where its lateness in sprouting makes it less vulnerable to late spring frosts. In the vineyard, Mourvèdre is a moderately vigorous varietal that does not require a great deal of extra care. The vines tend to grow vertically, making Mourvèdre an ideal candidate for head-pruning (the method traditional to Châteauneuf-du-Pape), although vines can also be successfully trellised. When head-pruned, the weight of the ripening grapes pulls the vines down like the spokes of an umbrella, providing the ripening bunches with ideal sun exposure. It is typically our last varietal to be harvested, often not coming into the cellar until early November.
Mourvèdre berries are moderate in size, medium-dark in color, with very thick skins. These thick skins are important because with its extremely late ripening, Mourvèdre is often still on the vines at the time of the first rains of the fall. Its thick skins protect it from the swelling and splitting that thinner-skinned grapes (such as Grenache) are susceptible to.
Wines made from Mourvèdre are intensely colored, rich and velvety with aromas of red fruit, chocolate/mocha, mint, leather, earth and game. They tend to be high in mid-palate tannin, and are well-suited to aging, although they are also often more approachable when young than the more overtly-tannic Grenache or Syrah.
In middle-age (anywhere from two to five years after bottling) Mourvèdre-heavy wines often close down and become tight and unyielding. This closed period can last for as little as a year, or in extraordinary vintages as long as a decade. When the wines reopen, the meaty flavors present in youth resolve into aromas of forest floor, leather and truffles. The more intense a Mourvèdre-based wine is, the longer it stays open at the beginning, the longer it stays closed, and the longer it will drink well after it reopens.
You can go back to the summaries of the different Rhône grape varietals.
Oct 20th-22nd, 2017
Celebrate Paso Robles Harvest Wine Weekend with Tablas Creek. Join us in the tasting room all weekend for a first look at our flagship wines from the 2015 vintage: 2015 Esprit de Tablas and 2015 Esprit de Tablas Blanc. We will also of course have open a range of small-production treats. If you’re interested in an in-depth exploration of the property, tours will run daily at 10:30am and 2:00pm (except Saturday *see below*) and reservations are recommended.
On Saturday, join us in the cellar at Tablas Creek for a series of interactive harvest cellar tours throughout the day, led by our Winemakers. Guests on these tours will sample wines in various stages of the winemaking process and learn about the 2017 harvest and winemaking at Tablas Creek. Tours will be offered 10:30, 12:30, and 2:30, are limited to 20 guests per tour, and are free to all guests. Reservations are highly recommended. Also, we’ll have live music by the incredibly talented Noach Tangeras band playing Americana style folk tunes from noon to 3:00pm.
In Antonio Galloni's Vinous (Sept. 2016) 28 Tablas wines topped 90 points, including 2014 Esprit Blanc (93), 2013 Panoplie (95), 2014 Patelin de Tablas (91) and 2014 En Gobelet (93). Read the review » More press »
July 30, 2017
Wednesday morning, we bottled our tiny (70 case) production of Picardan. What's the big deal? Well, this grape is one of the rarest in the world, with a total footprint of only a couple of acres. And this bottling is likely the first 100% Picardan -- made anywhere -- in a century or more, given its general application as a blending grape. It's so rare that we're working really without a road map; even our Perrin partners don't vinify it on its own. If that's not enough to get a Rhone geek like me excited, I don't know what is. Read More »